It’s a new and unfamiliar world out there for recent college grads. When the graduation gowns are stowed away to the back of the closet and the celebration champagne runs out, the sobering reality of life as a non-student both frightens and excites young adults beginning a new chapter in their lives. Some prioritize traveling for a short period of time, unwinding and celebrating their hard work while others immediately enter the work force to jumpstart their budding careers. Job hunting turns out successful for some while others struggle to enter employment. Unfortunately, many are oblivious to the surprising amount of high-demand jobs readily available on the other side of the world. One of these unorthodox employment options is rarely considered by bachelor degree holders with a firm grasp on the English language: a traveling ESL teacher.
A 30-second Google search reveals there is no shortage of ESL teaching positions throughout the world. The qualifications for an entry-level ESL teacher position in China’s booming English teaching industry are pretty straight-forward: be a native English speaker with a college degree and (at least) be TEFL certified. Normally, you can contact a recruiting agency in the U.S. that vets and places applicants in Chinese schools legally, but I’ve also met expats that came to China on a whim with tourist/non-work visa and found work. This is pretty risky considering it is illegal to make money in China as a foreigner without a Z-visa and SAFEA work permit, and a non-work or residence visa would require traveling outside of the country (or to Hong Kong) every 3-6 months for renewal. Either method works, but I would personally recommend researching reputable recruiting agencies to help place you in the country of your choice; it’s less stressful being a legal foreigner.
The craziest part about up-and-leaving to teach English in another country—in my experience, China—is how regularly you’ll surprise yourself. The trials and tribulations (maybe a little dramatic, but it wasn’t easy) I’ve faced during my time here influenced my personality, understanding, and overall perspective on life and this world for the better. The definition of success and happiness completely changed for me. Many of my exploits in the past 11 months make for great stories, but those same situations made for even better learning experiences. If someone told me that a year after graduating college I would’ve began learning Chinese, end up favoring Chinese food more than any other food, befriend both Chinese and other expats from around the world (Australia, South Korea, Zimbabwe, Canada, England, Tanzania, Japan, New Zealand, Hungary, Germany, Spain, Ireland, Scotland, and other Americans), travel a good portion of Southeast Asia, complete the Great Wall Marathon, be rented as a foreigner for promotional dancing, eventually walk into a Chinese classroom with no fear or inhibitions to teach 13-16 year olds English daily, and play tour guide for my parents visiting me on the other side of the world, I would’ve found it difficult to believe.
The life of a foreign ESL teacher is what you make it. Do you just want to work part-time while also private tutoring on the side? No problem. Do you want to work full-time with a heavy workload? The opportunities are there. Will you have time to travel and explore your surroundings? Oh yah, you betcha’. Does it provide a decent living? You would be surprised. I make 5,000 RMB (~$800) per month with a little extra on the side from private tutoring and my school pays for my apartment, utilities, visa fees, and healthcare. My paycheck is spent on eating out, weekend shenanigans, travel, and really anything I want since my only regular expense is groceries. If I decided to stay and teach a 2nd year? I would make 10,000 RMB per month minimum, still have paid holidays, housing stipends, and paid healthcare depending on the school. I’m not living the life of luxury—although private tutoring for wealthy families can get you invitations to expensive dinners, wine tastings, and other swanky events—but I’m truly comfortable.
So whether you’re seeking a change of pace, a new life, a convenient and cost-efficient way to travel, or a résumé builder, be aware of the opportunities afforded to native English speakers. At first, teaching will be intimidating and you’ll embarrass yourself more than once. Do take solace in the fact that it becomes easier and easier each passing day to the point where it begins to feel natural. In my experience, after the Chinese academic year flies by and the school year is over, it feels odd not hearing the collective”laoshi hao” (hello teacher) each morning as you begin your lesson.
If you have any questions about being an ESL teacher in China specifically, don’t be afraid to ask!
The biggest challenge that you face when traveling for long periods of time is homesickness; depending how you approach it, homesickness will lead you down one of two different paths: growth or debilitation.
Why did you travel?Take a pick from the numerous reasons why you are currently not at home powing around your favorite hangout, biting into your favorite food while surrounded by your close friends.You wanted a change of pace, a change of scenery, a new challenge, etc… To summarize your motivations, you wanted to experience something different.
Trust me, it’s not as simple as just moving to a different country and immediately assimilating.At some point, you’re going to miss the familiarity you’ve become accustomed to. Unfortunately for some of the great people I’ve met while teaching here, homesickness was too overwhelming and they returned home.
The Ameson Year in China program gave us—its participants—advice in combating homesickness.Some tips I followed, some I didn’t, and some I put my own twist on.I can confidently say that after 5 months of living and working here in China, I’ve overcome my homesickness and I embrace the difference in culture, social norms, and life in general here compared to the United States.
Here is what I’ve personally found to be effective in combating homesickness:
Hone your patience.
This will be your most important virtue to live by.Every. Single. Day. The first 2 months of my time here was an exasperating struggle to become comfortable.Take away your ability to easily partake in normal conversation, your overall familiarity with daily life, and put yourself in a country you have never been in; you’ll truly see the level of patience you possess. Now work to improve from that level and you’ve already gotten over the hardest part.
Get into a routine.
I’m not saying that you need to do the same exact thing week in and week out.Get your work schedule solidified so that you can make time for spontaneity and explore your surroundings.This puts you in control of at least one aspect of the new life you decided to try.The more you look forward to burger Mondays with your friends, or going to your favorite Chinese restaurant every Friday, the more incentive you have to get through a stressful week.
Don’t rely on alcohol or other drugs as stress relievers.
Don’t just look forward to getting hammered every single weekend with your friends as your sole means of an escape; you’ll be miserable and you’ll spend unnecessary amounts of money.By the time you leave, what would you rather talk about when people ask about your time traveling?Every weekend you don’t remember, the time you went down to the stall markets and had a competition with a friend to see who could get the best bargain, or the families that you private tutor? Choose two.
Don’t kill your time with social media; utilize it to inform and keep connected with others.
There’s a difference between mindlessly scrolling your news feed for 2 hours, and spending that 2 hours messaging and reconnecting with friends. Your homesickness is only going to get worse if you dwell on what your friends and family are doing without you.
Make the effort to stay in contact with your friends and family.
Your friends and family have their own life.Bills, work, social life, and their hobbies don’t allow them to dwell on you every single hour. You’re not going to be getting 40 Facebook messages and e-mails a day from your friends about how they miss you.The friends and family who do reach out to you? Appreciate that they took the time out of their busy schedule to inquire about your life, and make the most out of the conversation.
Realize you don’t have to figure everything out within the first month.
The farmer’s market and main grocery store I go to?That took three months to find both.My favorite bars, Chinese food places, and local spots?It’s changing every month. Who do I mainly hang out with?It took me four months to find the two groups of people I experience life in China with; both foreign and Chinese.Take a deep breath.Everything is going to fall into place and be ok.Just be open to new experiences and be respectful; it goes a long way.
Don’t adhere to ethnocentrism.
This is the most difficult advice to give because I sometimes get stuck in this way of thinking. Stop evaluating and comparing the culture and customs of the country you are residing in to your original culture. It’s ok to observe the differences because it’s a learning experience, but don’t think in terms of superiority. Don’t compare RMB to the U.S. dollar/any other currency. Don’t sit there and think, “Well in my country they do this better and this better.” No one cares. No culture is better or worse than any other culture; it’s just different. Stop thinking YOUR culture is the best; you won’t make friends easily and you’ll quickly label yourself as an insufferable foreigner. The more you accept and embrace the different culture you choose to live in, the easier it is to assimilate and learn from your experiences.
Again, why did you travel?Did you travel so you could continually think about all the things you miss?No.You traveled to get away from that familiarity.Use these tips to get over the depressing, hindering effects of homesickness and appreciate the time you have away from what you’ve deemed mundane, humdrum, and normal. Follow these tips and eventually your daily life in a foreign country will become that comfortable feeling of “normal.”
You traveled to relax. It is impossible to relax and enjoy yourself if you allow homesickness to take up your valuable time.
Well Christmas has come and past and I must say that these past four months in China have been quite the learning experience. Now, I am anxiously looking forward to what the New Year rolls in for the next six before I come home. There are still many
That being said, being around your friends and family for the holidays is a privilege that no one should take for granted. It is my first Christmas away from my family and while I knew this would eventually happen at some point in my (hopefully) long life, the holidays still feel a bit hollow without being with my Mom’s family on Christmas Eve, over the Mississippi River and through the White Bear Lake woods to my Grandma’s townhouse we would go on Christmas morning, and then enjoying the company of my Dad’s family throughout Christmas day. Christmas day ends lazily as my parents and I unwrap our gifts while the yule log burns on the TV screen; Frank Sanatra’s White Christmas and other Christmas classic’s play over the crackling digital fire.
Missing Christmas in America has me feeling a little bit homesick, but it got me thinking about all of the things I miss about being back home; so I decided to compile a list. Some of these may be specific to my local area so just imagine your favorite local beer, restaurant, or activity to replace with the ones I directly apply to Minnesota. Some are large things, but most are just the small luxuries or conveniences I have become accustomed to:
Your family. “Obvious Alert.” My family is incredible. I’ve talked to some of the other participants in my program and some didn’t exactly have parents and other family members who encouraged their ambition to work abroad here. Ranging from my parents to aunts to my grandma to my cousins, they check-in and make sure that I am happy, healthy, and enjoying my time here.
My friends. “2x Obvious Alert.” One of my biggest worries about coming to China right out of college was losing touch with many of the people that I was privileged to know and befriend during my time at the U of M. It makes me feel fortunate that a large number have reached out to talk over Facebook, Wechat, and e-mail. I can’t wait to come home to you amazing human beings.
Buffalo Wild Wings. Actually any chicken wings with ranch for that matter. Ranch doesn’t exist here in China.
Local Minnesota beers. Surly, Summit, Nordeast. (sigh)
Driving. I would never drive a car here in Nanjing. It makes any traffic in any American city you think of look peaceful, but I do miss my car.
Open Internet. Seriously, using a VPN on your phone just to use SnapChat or check your email is frustrating. Slow Internet speeds to your favorite sites are common, but I mean, I’m proxying a server halfway across the world in San Francisco.
Minnesota lake life. Although my family sold the cabin a long time ago, I have a great number of friends who kindly invite me to their cabins in the summer for some good ol’ fishing, paddleboarding, boating, and cabin lifestyle. It’s the only summer life we Minnesotans know.
Drinking tap water. Fill electric kettle with cold water. Boil that water and wait for it to cool down. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. Or switch out large gallon bottles to fill up like I do, but still.
Wide sidewalks. Even in a city as developed as Nanjing, the sidewalks are narrowed due to the e-bike lanes. And even then, people will ride their e-bikes on the sidewalk… You could walk in the e-bike lane, but you have to keep your head on a swivel.
Paying normal prices for American or European clothes. American and European clothing brands are marked up in the shops here and only come in Asian sizes. I am XXL-XXXL here. How is that for self-esteem…
Paying normal prices for American or European groceries. A regular package of Crystal Farms string cheese is 55 yuan. Coming from the Midwest and paying almost $10 for a pack of this is maddening.
Sports hysteria. Although the Chinese do broadcast basketball and soccer, the skill level and production level comes nowhere near that of America’s. Announcers are unenthusiastic, there are not many sports bars (even in a big city like Nanjing), and finding worthwhile discussion about sports that aren’t soccer or football is rare.
Your native language. It can be frustrating just walking down the street and having no clue what is being said as you walk by. I’ve heard people walk past me, say “lao wài,” (more offensive term for foreigner or outsider) and talk about me. You just have no idea what they are saying about you.
A full kitchen. As someone who loves to cook, only having one electric hot plate for my kitchen is exhausting. No 4 stove-top burners. The closest equivalent to an oven you will find here is a toaster oven. YOU EXPECT ME TO COOK MORE THAN 4 COOKIES AT A TIME. OUTRAGEOUS.
Bacon. It hardly exists here. Only in a few foreign restaurants can you usually find it, but prepare to pay a hefty amount.
Your comfort foods. For me, mini corn dogs, macaroni and cheese, legitimate crescent rolls, and venison to name a few. It’s been about 101+ days since I’ve any of these things.
Dryers. This is just based on preference, but I like drying my clothes in a dryer. Pretty much 99.99999% of Chinese people air dry and while I don’t mind it (ya’know, having no dryer), sometimes a man just needs his dryer sheets.
Indoor smoking laws. Prepare to be exposed to second-hand smoke like you never have before.
Soft mattresses. I had a friend who was in China for a month before I traveled here tell me that “The hardest bed in America is the softest bed in China.” Your back will either survive and become stronger, or wither away leaving you in the fetal position.
Adherence to time schedules. If your repair man says that he will be to your place at 4pm, you better make damn sure that you are at your place from 12pm-8pm because he is sure as hell not coming at 4pm.
Central heating. One half of my bedroom makes me sweat. The other half of my bedroom requires at least 2 layers to pass through comfortably.
Although I know that by the time my contract ends, I will be prepared to go back to the U.S. for some much needed familiarity. I am in no way ready to go back at this time though. There are still so many things to learn, a 5-week backpacking trip through Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand, The Great Wall marathon, my parents visiting for about 2 weeks, and me going to South Korea for about a week before heading back to the States. Life is good.
What are some things that you have ended up missing (however big or small) when you were abroad?
While I have gone through a great deal of culture shock here in China, I can only imagine what it feels like for someone to live in China his or her entire life and then move to America. Although I attended the University of Minnesota, a large university that boasts an impressive amount of international students (~6,521) with 2,727 or about a 1/3 of these students being Chinese, I never took the time to learn from just one of these students about the transition from China to America culture. Luckily, within my first week of teaching at the Nanjing No. 5 High School, I befriended an ambitious and bilingual college student who was preparing to fly back to Seattle to continue his undergraduate studies. He translated for me in my 7th grade classes during my first week (thankfully or that first week would have been 8934275892374x more difficult) and helped me realize that I was speaking way too quickly and teaching at a difficulty that was a little out of my class’s grasp. Now, he is back for winter break (American college and universities winter break is Dec. 20ish to Jan. 20ish depending on the school differing from the Chinese winter break/Chinese New Year during the month of February) and I had the opportunity to sit down with him and talk to him about his experiences being a foreigner in the U.S. from the perspective of a student.
Meet Yuxing Sun AKA “Action” (his nickname in America) who is currently 21, in his 4th year at the University of Washington in Seattle, and is enjoying his 5th year living in the United States. He’s studying to obtain his B.S. in Chemical Engineering and only has two more semesters left until he experiences the bittersweet yet rewarding feeling of graduation. He was originally a high school exchange student placed in Holly, Michigan and attended Holly High School for one year. He then came back to China to finish his senior year of high school and decided to began his undergraduate studies at the University of Washington. Through his time in America, he has developed an unwavering passion for Seattle Seahawks football and sports in general. He has an impressive grasp and understanding of the English language as well.
Me: So what exactly made you want to study abroad in America?
Yuxing:“When I was in high school, I just wanted the opportunity to explore other cultures and other countries and America was a big option because there are tons of programs [for Chinese students to study abroad]. The other program available was in Germany and I didn’t know anything about Germany or its language and that’s why I applied to the program in America. When I was in America for high school, I felt that the size was comfortable and there were a lot more sports going on. Since I am a big sports person, I decided to go to college in America. Another thing was that high schools in China don’t accept credits from American high schools so if I decided to stay [in China], I would have to stay an extra year with all the homework and I didn’t want that. The reason why I went to the University of Washington is that I only applied to public schools in America because they’re cheaper. I was also accepted to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, but I felt that Wisconsin is too cold for me. I didn’t have a ton of options and felt that the University of Washington was the best choice.”
Me: What do you think was the most difficult part about transitioning between Chinese culture and American culture? What was the easiest part?
Y: “So when I stayed with my host family, the most difficult part was definitely the religion. I was raised in a non-religious family (China country-wide atheism until recent years, ancestral worship is more common than well-known religions according to 2010 Chinese Spiritual Life Survey) and my host family was a Christian family. So when I went to church for the first time, I didn’t know how to behave or what couldn’t be done in church and I guess I made a couple of mistakes that I had thought were ok, but my host family got really mad at me. It wasn’t too bad… I think, because due to the language barrier, I was trying really hard to understand what the priest was saying. I decided to close my eyes and concentrate and they were telling me that closing my eyes was very disrespectful. So that was really rough. Another thing was about making friends because I was just there. I mean, I was from a different country and it was difficult to bond with others and for the first couple of months, I didn’t really have someone I could have a heart-to-heart conversation with. I think as I learned more about American culture, it seemed like Americans tend to focus on meeting more people than making deep bonds with those people. As I understood this, I felt better and better, but it was pretty tough for me to not have any close relation friends. In college, it was pretty much the same thing because I didn’t figure everything out in my first year. It took me awhile to figure it out because in college, I could talk with my roommate and the people in my dorm about “what is your major” or “what classes are you taking,” but I wasn’t able to talk about my interests which was stressful for me. I couldn’t find topics that I could really talk about for a long time with other people. I had heard stories about international students just make friends with other international students who speak their own language and I didn’t want to do that. It took me awhile to make this transition and once I watched more and more football my sophomore year, I found that I could make friends easier through knowing football and American sports.”
“For my first year in America, the easiest part was the language barrier. When I went to America for the first time, my host family and classmates were very nice with me. They were patient enough to talk to me and correct my mispronunciation, names of certain things, etc. and so they really helped the language transition. A lot of things are different language-wise [between English and Chinese] such as, I don’t need to differentiate between “she” or “he” in Chinese, but I always have to think about specifying gender when I speak English. I didn’t feel stressed because of the language barrier due to my host family’s support. Without the support, if people would give me a cold face or blank stare when they didn’t understand me, the language barrier would’ve been really really rough. It became a little more difficult in college though.”
Me: Did you have any positive experiences that you particularly remember?
Y: “A positive experience that comes to mind is the first time I was celebrating Halloween with my host family. I had never experienced Halloween before and I remember the first time I trick or treated. I didn’t have any costumes so I decided to just go as a pizza man. I just carried a pizza box with me around. It was the start of learning about another culture and truly experiencing it. The first time I was invited to a friend’s house was also big for me because I felt like I wasn’t alone anymore. I was able to meet his parents and sisters and I thought it was pretty cool. I was recently invited over to another friend’s house for Thanksgiving which made me happy. It had been a long time since I had eaten turkey and the pie her mom made was so delicious, I ate the whole thing over the next two days.”
Me: Having the luxury of being able to fly back home for a month after the 1st semester must ease your homesickness a bit, but in general are you homesick when you are in America? If so what do you miss the most about here in China?
Y:“I’m not a person who feels homesick a lot because I started my journey to go abroad when I was 16. It hasn’t been a big deal. The time when I felt the most homesick was when I got yelled at about the church thing. Other than that, I do miss my family, but now the Internet and technology allows me to talk to them when I want. What I do miss the most is the food. Eating salad, burgers, fries, fried fish, chicken nuggets and other popular American foods is ok, but I get sick of it. I miss the diverse food of China when I am in America.”
Me: To reverse that last question, what do you miss the most about America when you are back in China?
Y: “I think you are expecting this answer, but the biggest thing I miss is football. It is the end of the season right now and every game contributes to the playoff picture. I really miss watching the games with my friends and talking about it. The second thing is I miss the availability of napkins and tissues at restaurants and other places. There are many small conveniences in America that are not in China. The third thing is the central-heating where I live. The opportunity of playing basketball and working out indoors is something I miss too.”
Me: While moving to an entirely different country half way across the world is already taxing enough, does the stress of college add to this mental toll in a significant way? Do you think working a full-time job instead of college would be better or worse for the transition?
Y: “Schoolwork always gets me frustrated. I don’t think there is a big difference between the stress of studying in America and China. It can be a little difficult due to the lectures being in English, but I didn’t think it was too bad. I do think college is better for the transition because it’s easier to make friends, develop different interests, and get to know about cultures when you are in school. I heard it’s harder to make close friends when you have to work a full-time job.”
Me: What interests, hobbies, or curiosities have you developed from being exposed to American culture in the most direct way possible? (e.g. living there, taking classes in English)
Y:Since I was in the American environment that is big on sports, I was motivated to watch sports as well. It got me more involved in playing sports and working out too. Besides sports, I have become more interested in American television such as Cash Cab and Family Guy. Before that, I had only watched a few American movies, but nothing on American television. Living in America has further developed my interest for American movies even more as well.
Me: While Nanjing has a healthy amount of international influence that heavily differs from more rural parts of China, the Chinese culture is still heavily prevalent. Were there any big surprises about America during your first couple of months there?
Y: On the first day I got in America, my host family took me to a barn that had a lot of animals. That was the first time I legitimately “wowed” and I thought it was pretty cool. Everything in those first three days was very new and I am pretty sure I “wowed” many times. American breakfast with juice, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, and toast was really new for me. I had only had hard-boiled egg or fried egg before, but never scrambled. It was a buffet style which made it cool to see all of the different foods. My host family lived in a big house in a forest area which was crazy to me because it go so dark at night. It was fun to go hiking and horse-back riding for the first time too. It was very exciting to be experiencing so many new things.
For school, it turns out that the school bus I rode went to the middle school first and then went to the high school. My host brother told me that I was supposed to get off on the first stop and so I got off at the middle school without knowing it. I started to notice that everyone was a little shorter than me and eventually found out I was at the middle school. Luckily, there was still a bus at the middle school and the drive took me to the high school. When I got to the high school I “wowed” many times. The school was so big compared to those in China, the windows stayed close during the day, you moved between classrooms, it had central heating, I had my own locker which had never happened, renting textbooks, less homework, and different class times had different lunch periods were very new and pretty crazy to me.
For college, the buildings at University of Washington are older and more classic than the universities in China. The gyms were really cool to see because they were really nice with water fountains and rent equipment. The first time I went to a sporting event was a baseball game with a teacher of mine. It was surprising to see how popular baseball is in America and how passionate the fans were. It was all very surprising and exciting.
Me: Hypothetically speaking, say a friend asks for your advice about moving to America. What advice, tips, or warnings would you give concerning school, life in general, adjusting to a different culture, etc?
“Have has much of your cultures food you can before you leave because you will miss it.
Learn about sports in America. It helps you make friends easily.
Have an open heart. Be outgoing. I feel this is really important in America. Don’t just make friends with those who are from your country/culture.
Don’t be afraid to ask questions. It’s how you learn about differences you may not know.
Learn the correct terms that people use. Here in China people say “I need to use the toilet” instead of “restroom” or “bathroom” which is more acceptable. Also in China, people will ask for a “rubber” if they need to use an eraser, but no one in America calls an eraser a “rubber.” It’s a condom. There are a lot of little things like this.
Always remember to give tips after eating out and taxes at grocery stores exist too.
Go to a grocery store and learn the different names for food. Subway is also a good place to do this. It will help a lot.
Don’t think of American prices in Chinese RMB currency. Everything will seem super expensive, but American wages are much higher than Chinese wages.”
Me: Do you ever see yourself living and working in the U.S. in your lifetime? Why or why not?
Y: “I can definitely see it. For me right now, I am on the fence because I am still getting used to some things and I know I will miss things in America that I really enjoy if I come back to live in China. I will always keep it as an option. I could have a bigger house and make more money. I would like to visit other English speaking countries like Australia, Canada, and England, but I am worried about countries that don’t have English as the main language. It is hard to say where I want to live right now, but I can see myself working and living in America. I feel that my experiences in America opened me up to different cultures. It has been really unique, and it’s not over yet.”
Sitting down and talking about the differences between China and America was a lot of fun with Yuxing while also being educational. I find it fascinating how different cultures clash and how those of us deeply rooted in the culture we were raised in react to the vast differences in language, daily life, social norms, food, and even our preconceived expectations. In some cases, for example Paris Syndrome, the change can be so exhausting and intimidating that it makes you sick. Thankfully moving to China hasn’t been that shocking for me.
The Chinese farmer’s market. Abuzz, overwhelming, intoxicating, and the most fun you can possibly have grocery shopping. The nearest market that I frequent here in Nanjing—there are many, but farmer’s markets are difficult to find as there are no signs that proclaim its existence—is an experience I look forward to when it’s necessary to re-stock my fridge and cooking supplies. I can walk in with 100 RMB (~$16) and purchase enough food for 2 weeks whilst still walking away with a good chunk of change jingling rhythmically in my pocket.
Similarly structured to an indoor bazaar, this market has everything you need to make a fresh meal each night while costing you less than $2 per meal; the only problem you’ll run into is your motivation to cook when you only have one hot plate and two pots/pans forcing even some simplistic meals to consume 30-45 minutes of your time. Open 24/7 with prices that would make Black Friday shoppers foam at the mouth, this Chinese farmer’s market boasts an incredibly large selection of booths displaying: freshly butchered meats (i.e. beef, chicken, pork, seafood, turtles, bull frogs), ripe fruits (i.e. bananas, mangos, apples, oranges, pears, dragon fruit), impressive vegetables of all sizes (i.e. potatoes, mushrooms, onions, jalapeños, and many I’ve never seen or heard of), exotic spices that laugh in the face of the Blazing Wings Challenge at Buffalo Wild Wings, and much much more. I’ve crunched into the crispiest and brightest green jalapeños to ever grace my tastebuds. I’ve sliced potatoes bigger than my hands to make fries. Crab and shrimp have never tasted fresher and the flavor just explodes in your mouth. I’d honestly write a George R. R. Martin-esque rant elaborating on the aesthetically pleasing and mouthwatering foods you purchase from these markets, but I don’t want to make you read 20,000 words. If you enjoy cooking and selecting the ingredients that nourish your body, Chinese farmer’s markets will elevate you to cloud nine; heaven for your body, heaven for your mind, and heaven for your wallet.
DISCLAIMER: THOSE WITH LIGHT STOMACHS MAY NOT WANT TO SEE THE NEXT TWO PHOTOS. I DON’T KNOW. IT SHOWS A LOT OF BUTCHERED ANIMAL MEAT.
I fully recommend giving your business to these farmer’s markets, albeit the market isn’t exactly sparkling clean (if you are a germaphobe, this may be your own personal hell), but for those with unwavering immune systems who love the thrill of negotiating prices with charming merchants, grab a large bag to later sling over your shoulder with pounds and pounds of food and enjoy.
Laws being suggestions? Blank stares thrown my way while walking down the street? Overwhelming feelings of confusion, intrigue, and frustration as you attempt to navigate these relatively exotic streets, buildings, and businesses? Watching young children tug on their mother’s blouses as you walk by, pointing at you and yelling, “Wai guo ren (Foreigner)! Wai guo ren (Foreigner)!” Welcome to my first few days in Nanjing and boy was the first week a doozie.
It has been a little more than two weeks living here in Nanjing and I could not be happier. The city is positively gigantic; it is nothing I have lived before. Skyscrapers tower around the school campus where I teach and reside, but you can look down another street nearby that does not fit the bustling-city atmosphere Nanjing emanates. There is so much to distract you that it is no wonder I have gotten lost more than a handful of times already.
The streets are filled with tantalizing aromas wafting from the restaurants and side shops that saturate every city street. These smells engage in a constant battle with the reeking funk of garbage compressors, garbage bikes, sewage dumps, and other stinks that remain unknown. The constant chatter of merchants shouting their wares and prices dominate your ears, even after you kindly say no and continue on. The use of car and moped horns and bike bells is extremely liberal (I cannot communicate how quickly these horns and bells become white noise that you eventually end up ignoring). The daily struggle of driver vs. moped vs. biker vs. pedestrian is an ongoing war on these Nanjing streets. Bright light-shows and flashy displays overload your vision. In the same day, you can eat the most delectable meal of your life that puts your mother’s cooking to shame and then you can eat something that makes Ramen noodles, ketchup, and goose liver sound like a delicacy you would rather enjoy. The weather is hot and heavy as you break out sweating from walking just 100ft outside of your air-conditioned apartment. You experience this city—to an almost uncomfortable degree—with all of your senses and each day is a new adventure that your body and mind will learn from.
You may happen upon a big group of spectators watching a strategically thrilling game of Xiangqi. You will see meats, vegetables, produce, and other foods that are not found at a typical American grocery store. There are beggars, families, couples, groups of teenagers, farmer’s markets, high-end boutiques, luxurious clothing stores, video game cafés, banks, houses, apartments, repair shops, hole-in-the-wall convenience stores, and supermarkets; this is just within two blocks of my residence.
Downtown Nanjing is exactly what you would expect to be with swarms of people inhabiting the streets from 6am-11pm. However, as soon as the clock strikes 11pm, it becomes a ghost town on the weekdays.
I am placed at the Nanjing No. 5 High School and live on the campus. The campus is protected by gates as is typical of all schools and universities in the downtown Nanjing area. Basketball courts, a track, volleyball courts, badminton courts, a dance stage, and numerous ping-pong tables are right outside my apartment/dorm. The school is currently constructing its cafeteria where I will be able to eat for free for five days of the week if I so choose. The only annoying thing is being woken up by the campus bells and music that signify a change in class periods on the days where I do not teach in the morning.
My teaching schedule runs in an A week, B week type format and I teach some classes at the Nanjing No.5 Junior Branch School on my B weeks.
When I arrived to my apartment, it was filthy. The kitchen was a mix of wood shavings and layered dust, the wood flooring was covered in dirt and mud, and my bathroom was horrifying. There was a major sewage problem, but I was able to resolve it through toilet odorizers; I am just thankful that I don’t have a squat toilet. The bathroom still needs a bit more elbow grease, but it is almost to my liking.
It seemed as if the school considered my livelihood as an afterthought. They provided me with new bedding, a mattress, and a mattress pad, but that was pretty much it. It was less than stellar, but now that I have settled in and gotten the place somewhat clean and outfitted with the necessary living arrangements, I am finally enjoying my residency. The air-conditioning is fantastic (necessary for being comfortable with the Chinese climate) and I have my own kitchen, washer, and bathroom. You have to boil the tap water in order for it to be drinkable and after some negotiations, my school ended up getting me a hot plate, an electric kettle, and a few cooking pots. Stoves are extremely rare and I will not be baking cookies or pizzas anytime soon.In China, people don’t really use dryers. Clothes lines and hang piping can be seen everywhere from apartment windows to right outside shops to my (kind of) balcony.
The fun is just beginning. I’m almost completely settled-in, I have already made a great number of friends in Nanjing (both expats and Chinese), and I have almost taught for two full weeks which I will talk about in my next post. This enormous city has much to offer in these next months and with potential trips to Ningbo, Xi’an, Hong Kong, Beijing, Taiwan, and an end of the year trip to Japan being talked about, I am on cloud nine. Each week will continue to be eventful and educational. Strap-in folks, it is going to be a wild ride and an unforgettable experience.
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Growing up in the U.S., I became comfortable. Now I am in China and let's see me out of my comfort zone